SATURDAY 20th July: Stornoway-Inverness

The inviting sea at Broad Bay

Hazel’s day started with a swim in the clear seas – the difficult part was getting out.  The dip was a tonic for sun-crisped skin and cycle-battered limbs.   Atlantic Spas?  A gap in the market ….

After breakfast and the chance to catch up with our blog posts, we set off on the last seven miles to Stornoway and our final CalMac ferry sailing.

We enjoyed a singularly splendid crossing, with the majority of passengers sitting out on the decks making the most of the unique weather and sea conditions.  The Minch was like a mirror.

Enjoying our CalMac cruise

On arrival in Ullapool we had half an hour to kill before the bike bus was due so we opted to update our blog over a pint in the continuing sunshine.

The bike bus!!!!

Where do we begin!  We arrived at the appointed place at the appointed time.  There were plenty of people with plenty of bikes making innocent jokes like ‘Hope they can take all the bikes!’  We felt particularly smug at having booked our bikes on the bus in advance, till everyone else chorused ‘So did we!’

At 18.15 a 16 seater mini bus with bike trailer pulled into the pier car park.  What ensued was a scene from a badly scripted sitcom.  The monosyllabic driver was only expecting four bikes and not the ten which were waiting expectantly.  He had no idea how to tie the bikes on the rack because he had never done it before.  Securing the bikes turned into a free for all.

We all piled on to the stifling hot bus with its one spare seat.  Very chummy.  Very hot.

The next saga was payment.  The driver had no change available for the single journey tickets priced at £7.85.  Eventually the rather bemused sweaty band of travellers set off for Inverness stopping at Strathpeffer and Tore on the way.

And so we both arrived safely home.

NB  Once we have had a chance to remininsce about our event-filled Outer Hebrides MidLifeCycle trip, we will be back with some closing thoughts and a few extra photos.  We bet you can’t wait …

THURSDAY 18th July: West Lewis-Stornoway

We awoke to a brighter and less windy day (it’s all realtive on the Outer Hebrides).  Dragging tired bodies out of bed we headed for sustinance in the dining room.  Breakfast was as satisfying an experience as we would have hoped.

View from our breakfast table

Suitably fortified, we went for a gentle stroll along the beach while we awaited the arrival of our next saint – Ann from Bernera.

Blue skies!!

Ann duly arrived around 11.30 and took us to the end of the road so we were able to admire  the spectacular cliffs and stacks of West Lewis.

On the way back we stopped in at  Abhainn Dearg Distillery to see and hear about the processes and taste the product, then set off on our way to Stornoway including a second stop at the Old School for refreshments. Although our need was much less urgent than the previous day, the food and in particular the cakes, were every bit as much appreciated!

Sampling whisky makes any day feel better

As we continued our trip the interminable hills and relentless climbs of Lewis seemed to have diminisuhed to rolling countryside.  Even the wind which had sapped both spirit and energy the previous day was now a benign tail wind!

And so we sped up the last of the A859 into Stornoway in search of a friendly bike shop for some assistance with a couple of minor irritations which Hazel’s bike had developed. As a result, we made the acquaintance of Alex Dan’s bike shop where the helpful mechanic whipped the bike onto the stand and within five minutes had solveed the problem.

We found our B&B – and after checking in, showering and changing into non lycra kit, we headed out for food and Van Morrison at the 18th Hebridean Celtic Festival.

As ever, the administration of the event was smooth; we collected our wristbands with no fuss, donned same and headed on into the throng that was HebCeltFest 2013.  We had heard that numbers were up on the previous year, and certainly judging by the buzz that was about the performance and refreshment tents, that was true.

People watching at these events is always an absorbing pastime.  We saw kilts worn in a variety of ways we hope never to see again (you know who you are ponytailed man in brown leather kilt and matching boots); very short shorts, ecru tights (remember them ladies!) and flat shoes were the order of the day for under-16 girls – hopefully it’s just a phase and they’ll grow out of it.

Sorry folks – the signs at the event said ‘No photographs’ and we seem to have taken this literally (except the following at the Pimms tent – our first stop).

First stop – the Pimms tent

Van the Man was in very good spirits and played an excellent set.  All the oldies with a 2013 twist.  A fab night!

However, we couldn’t help adding in some of the official photographs to let you see what a fantastic festival it is.

The Main Arena at HebCeltFest

FRIDAY 19th July: Stornoway-Butt of Lewis

We woke up to what seemed a disappointingly grey day. Breakfasted – as ever.  Thanks to our latest saint nominations – Ian and Marion, our accommodation hosts for tonight – we were able to deposit our luggage and head off unencumbered for our ultimate goal … the Butt of Lewis.

We had been forewarned there was a bit of a climb out of Stornoway – which turned out to be a five mile uphill section across marshland and peat bogs, just typical of the North Lewis scenery. Quite breathtaking! 

During the climb the sky was clearing, patches of blue were beginning to appear and we could see for miles in all directions.

The bonus of the five mile climb was the five mile descent which took us almost to Morven Gallery, where we stopped. Caroline discovered the delights of flat white coffee (to be recommended along with the freshly baked and still warm apple pie).

A photo of one of Ian Lawson’s fabulous photos

The gallery itself was a true hidden gem – you should not miss it if you come here. Although only expect to buy stuff if you have recently won the lottery. We left empty handed.

The last 15 miles of rolling hills, moors and telephone boxes flashed past as we struck towards the Butt.

Some of the colourful flowers which had lined the roadside

The Post Office at Coll

Somehow we managed to miss the Butt turn-off and ended up at the Port of Ness, with the lighthouse way off to our left. Port of Ness was picturesque and worth a visit.

Port of Ness

Finally on the right road, we arrived at the Butt with its spectacular cliffs, panoramic views and miles and miles of ocean.

We kicked butt today 🙂

The Butt of Lewis

The lighthouse at the Butt was a welcome sight; the second welcome sight was St Ian of Fordham with his shiny green bike transporter.  (Don’t bother crying foul – our objective was to cycle to the Butt, not back again!)

Our last telephone box at the Butt – with shiny green bike transporter in background

We arrived at Broad Bay House feeling a mixture of euphoria and anti-climax – we had completed our task and now it was over.  What we weren’t prepared for was the sight which greeted us at Broad Bay –  wonderful panoramic views over the sea and a cocophany of colours heightened by fabulous sunshine.

The view from Broad Bay House lounge/dining room

Finally – machair

So inviting was the lure of the Atlantic that finally, after its week-long trip around the Outer Hebrides, Hazel’s swimming costume got out of the pannier and into the sea.

Hazel auditioning for the next Bond film

After a shower and a clean up we were good to go out for dinner with Ian and Marion to Digby Chick’s in Stornoway.  It was a great meal – great food, great wine and great company.  The evening was rounded off with some ice cold prosecco back at the house, and the joy of listening to other people’s music and learning of new artistes.

Hazel experiences an overwhelming bout of wine envy

Roll on the November BBQ 🙂

WEDNESDAY 17th July: Harris-West Lewis

Before we tell you about the stark reality of The Clisham, we should round off  the previous evewning’s events in the Hotel Hebrides.

The staff couldn’t have been more helpful in providing bike parking, drying facilities for skanky cycling gear, black bin liners in preparation for wet weather and other such requests.  Thanks particularly to the pretty young waitress who said she wished she looked like us! (Should have gone to Specsavers!)

The hotel was bustling, the variety of visitors young and old, local and visitor.  The impact of a couple of juices encouraged us to make friends with Scott and Sue, two slightly bemused American mountain bikers from Colorado who were having the time of their lives on a Wilderness Scotland group activity holiday.  They informed us that there are no steep hills in America – it’s legislation.  Alex Salmond take note, please!

We also met with Fran and Arnold again, helped two tourists find accommodation for two nights, including at the Polochar (take note Neil.  PS Did you get our room key?), and chatted with two guys from the Midlands who were blown away by the Harris scenery – even in the dense mist!

And so to bed.

Wet wet wet!  Rain is all around us.   I feel it in my fingers, I feel it in my toes. Rain is all around us, it”s even up my nose.  (Marty Pellow eat your heart out). Yep.  Guess what – it was raining.

Wet and foggy – Hazel’s out there somewhere

We set out with fear and trepidation towards the infamous Clisham.  As a hill it’s clearly much hyped and we wouldn’t diss it, but it’s also not to be feared.  Mind you, our legs and lungs would have preferred more than a two mile warm-up before being thrust headlong into the steepest part of the hill.

A slow steady pace took us to the top – still shrouded in rain and mist – but as we descended into Lewis the weather began to improve (not sure the two are connected).  The skies began to clear a bit, it dried up, a cruel hint of sunshine disappeared as quickly as it appeared, and there was a fierce tail wind.

The downhill section was sweet

We could tell we were missing some stunning scenery

We made really good time cycling up the A859, with its long straight stretches and gentle climbs.  It was pure cycling  joy!  However, the last hill before the Uig junction was a bit of a slog, complicated by road works and traffic control coupled with the fear that the man operating the Stop/Go sign may have had a sadistic streak.  As it happened he didn’t, and let us through.

The Land Raiders Monument

One of the islands’ many great fishing lochs.

Hello to the boys at Ticket to Ride

We eventually turned on to the A858 towards Callanish into a cross headwind.  It was not as angry as we were, and not as angry as we were to get.  We’d turned on to the B8011 towards Uig  and STRAIGHT into an almighty headwind.

At this point we had gone 38 miles since Tarbert with neither sight nor sound of restaurant, cafe or any type of refreshment establishment.  (Remember this is a holiday and not a bet or a dare!)

Six miles later Hazel had a tantrum (she blames low blood sugar) and refused to go any further.  However, the sad fact was that we were miles from our evening stop and our options were extremely limited.

Up up up up up up

Food!

So we soldiered on with the prospect of food at the Old School on Loch Croistean at the end of the new section of road.

The welcoming dining room at Loch Croistean

What a relief! Duly fed and watered, we nearly leapt on to our bikes – and into the teeth of the wind.  There were more tears and tantrums until, finally, there is was – Auberge Carnish.  We were welcomed in by our convivial host Richard.

The cycle had been long and hard – very hard – and most frustrating of all, due to low visibility, we were unable to fully appreciate the scenery round about us.  Note: There seemed to be less flowers at the edge of the roadside in Lewis than on the edge of the machair in the Uists.

We could still just about appreciate the beauty around us

Shower. G&T.  Another G&T.  Dinner.

The view from our room at Auberge Carnish

It is not an exaggeration to state that no other G&T will ever taste as good as that first one! But, at the risk of disappointment, we will continue to trial!

Hazel was checking out the gradients for tomorrow’s cycle

At first sight, in our cycle-addled minds, the menu appeared complex.  However, after a second gin and tonic and a little bit of time, and we were able to choose from the equally tempting options available.  Venison for Hazel and halibut for Caroline, washed down with some fine Sauvignon Blanc. And so to bed for a well-deserved night’s sleep.

The dinner setting at Auberge

AN IMPORTANT ANNOUNCEMENT

If you’ve been following our blog, you may have noticed a lack of information about Saturday’s events, and accompanying photographs of our journey.

This is all part of the technical hitches which have dogged us throughout, particularly with Saturday’s blog.

If you think you’ve read past blogs, do have a quick check, because we’ve been able to add in photos and up-to-date text.  We like to believe you’re hanging on our every word ….

 

TUESDAY 16th July: North Uist-Tarbert, Harris

Haar haar haar – and it wasn’t funny.

The ‘view’ from our North Uist bedroom this morning

Woke up to zero visibility and still the wind was blowing. Fortified with porridge and toast (thanks Susy) we headed off into the murk!

When Gus said he needed a JCB to sort his dry stane dyke … we thought he was joking …

The first phone box of the day

We knew there was scenery to be seen and the sea managed to keep its green hue in spite of the grey sky, giving us hints of what could have been.  We have posted our own images here today, but for the true splendour of these islands and their fabulous landscapes we recommend you check out www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk.

Can you spot the faithful collie?

Seeking shelter

Seeking shelter from what? we hear you ask …

If you look closely you might just be able to see an otter having its breakfast – if you do you’re doing better than we did, missing it by minutes.

?

As ever, CalMac was efficient and this particular ferry surprised us with its salon, comfy seats and coffee/tea/hot chocolate dispenser.  What more could cyclists ask for!  Happy bunnies. (Thanks CalMac).

On time, despite the weather

Both of us took the opportunity to catch up with local news thanks to the free on-board Island News & Advertiser, and of a strong phone signal to check in and find out how our respective pets were doing.

My screen-saver of Charlie, who doesn’t seem to be missing me at all, by all accounts

On arriving in Harris, Hazel was keen to find someone with a spanner to help her sort out her gears.  Outdoor Harris at the ferry terminal was unmanned, so we continued north.  On spotting the following sign at the side of the road, Hazel braked to a halt and accosted the on-site lady for assistance.  Job done!

Today’s weather forecast at the MacGillivray Centre, Harris

The rest of the trip included fabulous beaches, lunch at the highly recommended Hebrides Art Centre, intimidating uphill climbs, and a long FAB downhill into Tarbert.  This part of the journey was facilitated by Fran and Arnold who offered to take our panniers from Hebrides Art to Tarbert.  What was a girl to do!  It would be rude to say no!

Hebrides Art – café, gallery, gifts. Don’t miss

Beach after beach after beach

… after beach after beach

… after beach after beach

More self-catering properties to die for

Now safely housed in the Hebrides Hotel in Tarbert, we imbibed in a few celebratory juices and a carb fuelled dinner before retiring to our rooms to prepare for tomorrow’s adventure …

MONDAY 15th July: South Uist-North Uist

It was a grey grey day – with a bit of wind.  Well, quite a bit of wind – which was not always behind us. We availed ourselves of a substantial Polochar Inn breakfast – some opted for the famous and fabulous Stornoway Black Pudding, others for smoked salmon and scrambled eggs for the second day in a row.

After breakfast, and on the advice of the ever-reliable Neil, we went in search of machair.  NB This is South Uist in the Outer Hebrides – it is machair-land.  Guess what!  No machair. So, machair-less we headed north, not certain as to the actual distance we would have to cycle that day, due to a difference of opinion between Neil and Caroline.

First stop was the Kildonan Museum and Café.  Guess which we visited first!  However, the museum was a fantastic insight into a way of life which is almost extinct.  Whether this is good or bad is another topic for discussion.

We were also particularly struck by the exhibition to the silent weaver- a war veteran who returned and chose never to speak again but expressed himself instead through his intricate grass weavings.

Back on the road, we came across the renowned Howmore Bike Shop.  Unique.  Hazel invested in a set of brake blocks just to be sure.

Back in the saddle we headed for Hebridean Jewellery and Café for lunch.  Guess which we visited first :).  On the way we crossed a series of causeways which interlink this archipelago.

Red phone box at Stilligary

Given the wind it was a big decision to take the 1.5ml detour to the gift shop and café.  The jewellery was shiny but for us the star was the lentil soup – second day running!

There are some fantastic looking self-catering properties on the islands

Another telephone box

Refuelled we set out again read to take advantage of the long smooth reasonably flat road which were South Uist and Benbecula.

We loved the South Uist roads

Unfortunately, Nort Uist was looming. As we turned into the wind, the changing terrain became more apparent and the last few miles were purely a case of slogging it out into the damp drizzly conditions with reducing visibility.

The long cycle (in less than ideal conditions) allowed time for reflection on the nature of life before the causeways linking these isolated communities were built and the struggle to survive on what was offered by the land and the sea.  For light relief, Hazel tried to identify as many types of flowers along the roadside as possible – well, that was her only view.  And we were grateful for the chance to stop and increase our photo library of red telephone boxes.

Using a telephone box as a resting post

Telephone boxes popping up everywhere today

It was with great relief that we made it to the top of the last hill of the day and there, waiting for us, was Susy’s house.  A cup of tea, a bath and dry clothes brightened our mood.  The ensuing G&Ts didn’t do any harm either.

Never before had we had a salmon steak the size of the one we were presented with this evening.  NB Ask us some time about the unbreakable glasses ….

SUNDAY 14th July: Barra-South Uist

It seemed a windy windy night.  We both woke aware that the south westerly had strengthened overnight.  Got out of bed to refuel ourselves for another long long long day.  We had been promised the missing peas for breakfast from the night before (you really had to have been there).  But alas, no peas.  Vaughan was the epitome of professionalism.

View from our bedroom

Isle of Barra Hotel receptionist

At this point we wish to make clear that our references to techinical inadequacies in yesterday’s blog referred to our inability to work the technology we were presented with!

After a gentle start to the morning, we set off.  So gentle was our morning, that we had inadequate time to get to Vatersay and back and be sure of catching the ferry to Eriskay.  So we had coffee instead.

It was a pretty stiff wind, which was helpful when behind us and a significant handicap when in our faces.  We had a uneventful trip up to Barra Airport where we disembarked and had a walk across the dunes in our bare feet and paddled (Bob: correct spelling??) in the Atlantic.  We were under the impression that the North Atlantic Drift kept this bit of water warm.  What’s going wrong?  It was baltic!

Barra Airport and landing strip

Baltic feet in baltic sea

Back on the bikes.  We followed the single track road to nowhere and came back again, having decided that we would collect photographs of red telephone boxes. Watch this space.

Headed for the ferry in PLENTY of time. taking advantage of our pre-packed lunch (jelly pieces) and the availabilty of vending machines containing hot chocolate and Snickers (only ’cause the Twirl option wouldn’t work – believe me, we tried).

Jelly piece and carb juice (thanks for the bottle ‘Ticket to Ride’)

As ever, CalMac left on time (thanks CalMac), and we headed for the vast and sunny shores of South Uist via Eriskay.  We arrived in Eriskay and headed – as you would – for The Politician pub.  It was only when we got there we realised how hungry we were – it was seven hours since breakfast – and a pint and a bowl of lentil + bacon soup seemed in order.

Onward – and upward we headed toward the Polachar Inn.  And here you find us, currently sitting with the slowest PC in the entire universe.  Neil – we applaud you and will be there for the termination of said PC :).

Reference said PC, we are now two days behind with pictures but, as we’d like to get some sleep tonight, we’ll defer picture downloading till tomorrow … possibly.

SATURDAY 13th July: Kinlochleven-Barra

Our Cal Mac ferry arrives into port

7pm on the CalMac ferry from Oban to Barra.

Left Oban promptly with bikes safely stowed on the car deck. Sunshine and cold Magners helped to enhance the holiday mood.  Due in Barra at 20.30 –  hope they’re still serving food when we get there.

Today has been a massive contrast to yesterday.

Said goodbye to Saint Cathy (note rapid progress to sainthood) and Nelson.  Set off fuelled by a wholesome and substantial bikers breakfast.

The Sustrans 78 Route from Fort William to Oban was a gem. At this point we feel we owe Route 78 further description.  In contrast to the trunk roads, the cycle route is smooth and even making for easy and pleasant cycling. If we had any criticism it would be slightly ambiguous signage – one such being that we ended up cycling all the way down s muddy dirt track to a caravan site.

We enjoyed the scenic splendour of the Argyll coastline including the magnificent Castle Stalker and the Connel Bridge.

Stunning Castle Stalker

Hazel genning up about Castle Stalker’s history

You can just see Hazel at the end of the bridge

The journey was incident – and almost insect – free.  This is a reference to the multitude of cleg and insect related incidents yesterday. Disappointing stop at the bike shop in George Street in Oban due to the surliness and unhelpful attitude of the shop assistant.  OK he was busy but there are ways of saying things. While it may have seemed that all Caroline wanted was to use his bike pump (charge £1), he didn.t stop to consider how much either of us might have spent ultimately. As it was we left empty-handed.

Ee Usk had been recommended for lunch, but on checking the menu prices, we decided it wasn’t for us.  So we went to the Italian next door.

Oban itself was a surprise. On a sunny July day it was jumping.  However neither the drivers nor the pedestrians seemed to be aware of the existence of cyclists.

One of many sights at Oban harbour

Arrived on time in Castlebay (thanks CalMac) passing the splendid Kisimul Castle, and chewed the fat with other visiting cyclists whilst waiting to disembark.  Finally leapt on to the bikes and dashed towards the Isle of Barra Beach Hotel to be in time for dinner.  In fact, we arrived with time to shower and be in place for our 21.15 sitting.

The menu offered, amongst other things, fish & chips & peas. However, peas were off and substituted by salad which became the topic of some humorous debate (you probably had to be there …,). We then retired to the bar – you’re as surprised as we were. It didn’t take long to get into debate and discussion with Roddy and Seamus.  Thanks for your hospitality boys!

FRIDAY 12th July – Inverness-Fort William

It was a hot hot day.  Last minute preparations, and plans to meet up at Tesco on the Dores Road went tits up – and that set the scene for the rest of the day.

Caroline had her first fall but 10 seconds from leaving home – due to weighty panniers and unexplained animation from the bike in the form of clanking, whirring, spontaneous braking, grinding and all manner of noises.  A visit to Bikes of Inverness was essential.

Meanwhile Hazel was reacquainting herself with her 30+ year old Claud Butler – 10 speed!!!  The saga of her giant bike and panniers is too lengthy a tale for now, but resulted in her having to dust down the trusty old steed.

So, 45 minutes behind schedule we set out along the Dores road on the south side of Loch Ness. We resisted the temptation to stop for a pint  – did we mention it was a very hot day?

All went well till Inverfarigaig when progress suddenly slowed. And from there on the three evils – headwind, panniers and up-hill stretches – combined to sap leg strength and progress.  In spite of the exhilaration of the downhill stretches, it was an exceptionally weary pair that fell off their  bikes and staggered into the Lovat Hotel at Fort Augustus.

At this stage, three hours behind schedule, we were looking at alternative options for getting to Fort William.  And we didn’t care!  However, a phone call to our overnight host at Kinlochleven, resulted in an offer to collect us from Fort Augustus and transport us directly to our evening abode.  The woman (Cathy) should be beatified.

Now, fed and watered, and having reduced weight and volume of luggage SIGNIFICANTLY, we are about to return to repair for Day 2.